Steamport Southport Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 I've always had a fascination for the Consett Long Boilers since I saw a drawing in the Railway Modeller. Definitely one for the shopping list. Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted October 19, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 19, 2016 The 7mm 48DS test etch is now more or less complete. This one has etched brass overlays for the wheels but I have since found out that Slater's produce this 2'6" disc anyway. They come on 1/8th axles (not as stated in the catalogue) which suits the design of this kit. I still have to do mouldings for the sandboxes and headlights, also needs some angle for the derail beams. The open cab version has also been etched and other window varieties but this cab went together perfectly so no need to test build them. View from underneath shows the drive arrangement, only one pair of sprockets here so the other half is not fitted. The chain to the trailing wheelset is well under the cab floor and a 4mm gearbox will fit on the leading axle, or alternatively could be fitted to the central shaft if the sprocket bosses are shortened. Either way the motor should be entirely out of sight in the engine casing and the cab clear. The usual compensation system is incorporated, one axle fixed, the other allowed to rock under a knife edge. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
decauville1126 Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 Looks beautiful. Any idea yet when it might be available? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Jason T Posted October 29, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 29, 2016 Just like to say a big thanks to Mike for bringing along some replacement mouldings to the Leeds Show for me today. An even bigger thanks for being kind and not laughing at my efforts with the Ruston 48 and 88DS builds; to quote Blade Runner, 'it's not an easy thing to meet your maker' Cheers, Jason. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted October 30, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 30, 2016 No laughing from me, they are both very good - and I've just saved your photo of the 48DS for our gallery. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted November 1, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 1, 2016 More 7mm news Carrying on with RH locos, I've started building the 7mm version of the 165 0-6-0. This kit came originally from a 9mm scale 3'6" gauge DE for New Zealand but was re-scaled to 4mm and generally sold as PWM650. This loco was supplied to NZ for industrial use and named "Orbell", some similar (but DM) examples were built to 1000mm gauge, at least one surviving in Norway. To make change from PWM650 I'm building this one as an industrial DM. The RH frame plates were identical regardless of gauge or drive system, the DEs have a plate bolted behind the gearbox cutout but in this one I have put the jackshaft bearings in. I've not found many photos of DMs and the ones I have include one with connecting rod drive to the centre axle and one with drive on the trailing crankpin - similar to the arrangement on 0-4-0s such as the two BR ones. If anyone knows of any more photos of this type I would be very grateful. The intention is to make all varieties of the 0-6-0 possible in 7mm scale. Top view with cab base bolted in. For the last appearance of our 7mm club layout "Regis Bay" I finally got round to painting the test etch of 11001. With no 4'6 Boxpok wheels available these are made from a two layer brass etch set into Slater's USA 0-6-0T wheels. This involves quite a lot of work, especially as the Slater's moulding includes the large balance weights of the USA tank but the result is good. The other end of the frames, showing the massive crank and connecting rod, there is a coupling rod hiding behind this. View from the top shows the unique feature of 11001 - this was I believe the only British loco with divided rod drive. In order to reduce the load on the driving crankpin there is no coupling rod between leading and centre drivers, the leading crankpin is driven directly from the connecting rod. This was done on the largest US steam locos capable of several thousand horsepower from two cylinders but seems like ridiculous over engineering for 500hp - I suspect another one of Mr. Bulleid's bright ideas here. View from underneath, no brake rigging - at the time of building I didn't have any details of it and it';s hardly visible anyway. The motor/gearbox is Slater's with a Mashima 18/33. Construction is split in the usual way, battery boxes and inner cab floor remain on the footplate. Not much to do to get this kit out, all the mouldings are done, just needs production etches and a rewrite of the 4mm instructions/parts list. 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Liking the Ruston....any idea when it might be available? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted November 1, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 1, 2016 It won't be long after I have finished building it, no new patterns to make apart from a lubricator for PWM650 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelpara Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Just came across these kits and loving look,of some of them. Is there any recommendations on which one to start with as a first timer in 4mm scale? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen 28 Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 For the last appearance of our 7mm club layout "Regis Bay" I finally got round to painting the test etch of 11001. WP_20161027_13_51_23_Pro.jpg With no 4'6 Boxpok wheels available these are made from a two layer brass etch set into Slater's USA 0-6-0T wheels. This involves quite a lot of work, especially as the Slater's moulding includes the large balance weights of the USA tank but the result is good. WP_20161027_13_51_42_Pro.jpg The other end of the frames, showing the massive crank and connecting rod, there is a coupling rod hiding behind this. WP_20161027_13_52_21_Pro.jpg View from the top shows the unique feature of 11001 - this was I believe the only British loco with divided rod drive. In order to reduce the load on the driving crankpin there is no coupling rod between leading and centre drivers, the leading crankpin is driven directly from the connecting rod. This was done on the largest US steam locos capable of several thousand horsepower from two cylinders but seems like ridiculous over engineering for 500hp - I suspect another one of Mr. Bulleid's bright ideas here. WP_20161027_13_52_43_Pro.jpg View from underneath, no brake rigging - at the time of building I didn't have any details of it and it';s hardly visible anyway. The motor/gearbox is Slater's with a Mashima 18/33. WP_20161027_13_53_22_Pro.jpg Construction is split in the usual way, battery boxes and inner cab floor remain on the footplate. Not much to do to get this kit out, all the mouldings are done, just needs production etches and a rewrite of the 4mm instructions/parts list. 11001 looks an absolute beast, might scare the terriers clean off the layout. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted November 2, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 2, 2016 Just came across these kits and loving look,of some of them. Is there any recommendations on which one to start with as a first timer in 4mm scale? It depends on whether your interest is in BR or industrial, diesel, electric or steam but some kits are much easier to build than others. The difference is not in the principles of the kit design but in the complexity of the prototype. If you give me some idea of your interests I'll make some recommendations for you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 Just came across these kits and loving look,of some of them. Is there any recommendations on which one to start with as a first timer in 4mm scale? If it helps, I recorded a step by step build of one of Mikes kits here; http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/66145-black-country-blues-arthur-builds-yorkshire-engine-co-de2/?p=910578 You will not find a better designed range of etched kits. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelpara Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 It depends on whether your interest is in BR or industrial, diesel, electric or steam but some kits are much easier to build than others. The difference is not in the principles of the kit design but in the complexity of the prototype. If you give me some idea of your interests I'll make some recommendations for you. For me it's the unusual prototypes that I like to see, something different that no one else would have. To that extent I am drawn towards the 0-8-0 and jack shaft drive diesels. Shane Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted November 2, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 2, 2016 Just came across these kits and loving look,of some of them. Is there any recommendations on which one to start with as a first timer in 4mm scale? I would go for the 01 Barclay, it's a complete kit, self quartering wheels and there are only 4 of them and a jackshaft to worry about.! Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted November 3, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 3, 2016 I would agree with Mike about the 01 and the other two Barclays are relatively easy. Arthur's suggestion of the DE2 is a good one and no jackshaft to worry about here. The Hunslet 0-8-0 is quite simple but the YE 0-8-0 (Taurus) is anything but. For industrials we usually recommend the Hunslet 50T 0-6-0 or one the TH Vanguard 0-4-0s for those wary of building frames/running gear (they fit on rtr motor bogies). For BR locos, the Barclays as above or the earlier North British (D2700, D2703. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelpara Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 I would agree with Mike about the 01 and the other two Barclays are relatively easy. Arthur's suggestion of the DE2 is a good one and no jackshaft to worry about here. The Hunslet 0-8-0 is quite simple but the YE 0-8-0 (Taurus) is anything but. For industrials we usually recommend the Hunslet 50T 0-6-0 or one the TH Vanguard 0-4-0s for those wary of building frames/running gear (they fit on rtr motor bogies). For BR locos, the Barclays as above or the earlier North British (D2700, D2703. The Hunslet 0-8-0 is actually one that I fancy doing, there does not appear to be any curves to worry about! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Staffordshire Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 Hi Mike, Any news on the availability of 4mm D2999 ? Many thanks, Ian 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted November 4, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 4, 2016 The Hunslet 0-8-0 is actually one that I fancy doing, there does not appear to be any curves to worry about! Well spotted, the only curve is the cab roof - not difficult as this is half etched. The top corners of the engine casings have half etched grooves inside to assist in bending. Apart from having to do a lot of the building twice, this kit is no more difficult than the 50T 0-6-0 which we usually recommend for beginners. Having 8 wheels is no more difficult than 6. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted November 4, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 4, 2016 Very nice EE/HL there. D2999 will probably appear early next year, may well be our 50th kit (no we won't be doing gold plated ones). It's amazing how far we have come in 14 years. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted November 4, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 4, 2016 (edited) Very nice EE/HL there. D2999 will probably appear early next year, may well be our 50th kit (no we won't be doing gold plated ones). It's amazing how far we have come in 14 years. Is it that long ago since I built a Ruston 165DS? Cheers, Mick Edited November 28, 2016 by newbryford 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 ^^ Why is it not painted yellow? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 You rang m'lud Yellow Ruston... Since weathered and glazed, my modification of Mikes kit into one of the DEs supplied to Colvilles Steel for use at Ravenscraig and later other Scottish works. The modifications are no jackshaft, cab sides sloped back, modified front windows and cab back with centre door. They were designed for use in back to back multiple use. Still to be added when the photo was taken are thick m.u. cables dangling off the cab rear. . 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandhole Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 I've not heard of any but it must have been extremely noisy starting at anything like full power. I suspect the two 150hp "auxiliary" engines (the ones with the silencers on the roof) would have been working hard, the function of these was to power the superchargers for the four main engines. These would progressively cut out or back in depending on the load but starting a heavy train would require a lot of the available power. Almost all the photos of it working are between Manchester and Derby on fairly light loads (as were most of the trains on this route) but it was notorious for blasting soot out of the tunnel roofs with its angled exhausts. I didn't get to this line until about a year after 10100's withdrawal so I never saw it. My old friend Stuart Mitchell's dad worked on the Fell. Stu's late mother said to me the beast sounded like a cathedral organ as it came into Derby station!! Chris. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MJI Posted November 5, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 5, 2016 I will be ordering a PWM650 in 4mm OO pretty soon, after Mike got me to buy all the other parts last Warley and I had run out of money. Will not be at Warley this year due to finances but XMas money will go on the departmental. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 Will you be doing a build thread. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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