Well the time has come to start a new chapter.
Here is where we start. I bought an Ivatt 2MT partly built, but built very badly. I have tidied up the cab, and the boiler and footplate is now straight and square. I thought I had got the chassis in a runable condition. I have now decided to make the cylinders removable, and to follow a suggestion on here to compensate the chassis on the front two drivers, I will leave the rear fixed as I can just about get the motor into t
My little 735 is now ready for painting I think. It just needs a very good scrub and then will need to be primed and parked up in the paint shop until the compressor comes.
Just a few shots to show before the final cleaning stage. Hope I have not missed anything, Feel free to say if you noticed anything not there.
And just to show how small the loco really is. This is a tender from an Ivatt 2MT.
Well, I have completed the rear lamp irons, this has been a lot of guess work. In the photo's I have you can only see the one behind the buffer. The position of the others is pure guestimation. On the A1 A1X the middle lamp irons are generally an extended one. Fixed just behind the buffer one. So if anyone can prove my positions right or wrong I would be grateful. I also fitted the toolbox behind the bunker. I am very suprised I could find no photo's of one with a hasp on the lid to keep it shut
It has not been a very good week on the model making front, I try not to work at the weekends at the moment, and the wife has had three days holiday this week. I have also spent a lot of time redrawing the first floor plans for our house. So two mornings is not much time when it comes to making big advances. As it is down to detailing now it seems even slower. I suppose a lot of it is my own fault for making something that is not in the box.
Well down to what I have been doing, as yo
Back to the chassis, as seen in the previous post the chassis had been finished ready for reassembly. My method is as follows, after a good clean with the glass fibre brush and a scouring powder, I clean with Viacal. The chassis was blackened along with the wheels and balance weights. The chassis was sprayed black from a Halfords can, and the wheels and between the frames hand painted with precision.
Then it was down to cleaning the hornguides, and making sure the bearings slid
Well the last two days have been a bit of a disaster. Yesterday I was doing a few tweeks on the chassis. When a I put it back together after sorting out the thrust washer, I found I had missed out a packing washer. So back to taking it apart again. After replacing the washer everything seemed to tight so eased it off here and there in the gearbox. Put it back into the chassis with an extra washer on the axle to get rid of all the side play on the driven centre axle.
Then just I did somethin
There has not been much happening with 735 for the last few days, I am waiting to reassemble the chassis. I have got it all blackened and painted, with all the sundry bits ready. Hopefully that will be up and running this week. There always seems so many odds and ends.
I have also made and fitted the front splasher/sandboxes. They were fiddly as they were to wide and did not match the wing plate. Would of been fine on the A1X I think as the smokebox is round. I also made up the
The latest on No 735 is that some of the body is now mostly assembled. It is of the slot and tag design. I do not know what I did but all the seperate bits fitted in their slots, but not so when joined together. A little bit of fiddling to get right. In the end I basically only used the ones at the bunker rear, and the one either side at the rear of the tanks. The rest were filled off. I soldered 2 nuts onto the inside of each tank front and back, and 2 in the cab one either side at the rear. Ho
Although this is for the A1 735 I thought it was a far better workshop post
The reasons for altering the buffers for the A1.
1) they sit very close th the footplate.
2) I could not see an easy fixing the heads
3) Did not want to solder them on assembled.
I had seen an article about making them selfcontained some time ago, so we have to try from memory as I for the life of me I can't remember where the article was. The idea is that a the head has a slot in i
Hi
Just a quick post to show how the boiler and smokebox will join using the copper ring I soldered to the smokebox. This was done so the boilers and tanks can be seperated for painting, I find it easier if the bits that are mainly green are apart from the bits that are mainly black. It is also very much easier to do the lining.
The down side is it can use up quite a few nuts and bolt. I wish it could be done with splashers too. I think with this loco the cab floor will be attat
Just a quick update as I am hopefully I am of to Sao Paulo shortly. Do you ever get those days modelling when you hope they never end as all goes so well. That was today. I assembled the wheels onto the chassis and the whole shooting match rolled with no problems. Just have to fix a torsion bar for to hold the motor away from the cab and the pickup on the leading wheel the other two will be wipers on the treads hidden by the tanks.
Then I thought I ought to do the footpla
Here a turn up for the books. I have had a chance to get the Buffalo out and give it a coat of satin varnish mixed with a dash of black.
It is now been reassembled and is ready for posting.
I am very pleased with the way this has turned out. I would have one of these lovely tanks if I modelled the GWR. I was a little concerned when I got the set of parts that there would be a struggle to get a decent loco from them. I would like to have a go at the saddle tank version in
I made the number plates and applied the transfers as number 1282. The number plates are kits that I get from Martin Finney. I like these as you are not limited to certain numbers, and there seems to be little waste in the way of numbers as to you can get extra plates.
So far all is fine. Well no but it would be if I could get a new compressor. No chance of spraying the satin varnish. Get a new can of humbrol out of the cupboard and see if I can brush paint to any s
Just a very quick update as no modelling was done today, I thought I would post a picture or two.
They all show progress on the painting of the tank body section.
I am not totally happy with the colour, but I know the green before 1928 was different. The loco is based on a photo in 1930 so I assumed it was in early green.
I am thinking that by the time it has been put on the black footplate, has the transfers and is covered in satin varnish, it might tone it down
I had a successful day I wired up and put the pickups onto the chassis. It then spent about two hours or so running in each direction on the rolling road, seems to be sweet as a nut. Will know for sure when the body is reattached. Fingers crossed.
It was lucky I had this to do because the balcony was out off bounds today.
Above is a picture taken in December showing the loco body in primer. I was very pleased I only had a few imperfections to remove.
The rest of
Here we are at the end of another adventure. The Ivatt has now been finished apart from glazing.
I was very pleasantly surprised the transfers from Fox arrived in 22 days, for mail not tracked it must be a record. It normally just never arrives. The emblem is from Fox and the numbers from HMRS. As usual I had to use 3 of the lovely emblems to get two. But never mind.
I think the lining looks a lot better now coated with some black tinted varnished.
All in all
I have done a little to this in the last couple of days, mainly metal bashing to get myself in to a place where I can start putting it together.
I made new cylinder front and back so I have something solid to work with when it comes to screwing it all together. The front of the frames where cut off, a new buffer beam was made as I ruined the original re riveting it. These will all be soldered to the front of the cylinders once they are assembled. You will see how the cylinder frame h
Made a start on 735, managed to get a couple of sessions in. The etching is not a crisp as one would of hoped for, but nothing that can't be got over. The chassis etches were worse than the body ones, just takes a little more cutting out and a bit more filing.
First job was to cut the frames for the hornblocks, after this it was plain sailing to get the chassis together. As you can see I have marked all the axle bushes so I know they will fit again when painted..
Ha
Firstly I would like to say I have no idea of the copyright of this drawing, I would like to thank whoever for a very useful drawing,
I was going to wait until the 1076 class was completly finished, but I can't, I got out my Ace Models kit of LBSCR's A1/A1x class. This was just to get myself acquainted with the kit. These kits are quite basic by todays standard but for the price they make up into respectable locomotives. I have made a couple of kits from Ace, and the ones I have done
Here are a few photos of my 7mm Buffalo under construction. I think you will see it is a very straight forward build nothing to fancy. I am looking forward to the day it is finished I get board with some builds this was one unfortunatly.
Above is the footplate section, this just requires the buffers soldering on and then can be painted. I try to build loco's for ease of painting. This is all black so needs only the buffer beams masking.
Above and below show the body before
Hi.
I am in the process of finishing off a GWR pannier tank. It is from a set of etches I got from Dave Berry shortly before he pass away. It seems that the etches were for a multitude of pannier tanks, so it was a case of making sure I only used the ones I needed.
I do not know when it was drawn but it was very old style, needing a lot of fitting and fettling, an aid to scratch, but saying that it sat on the drawing well.
The chassis is in nickel silver but quite thin. It
Today I got down to some serious thinking about the frames.
To start with I need to widen them in front of the cylinders. I have marked where the cylinders will go. S I will remove the front of the frame at the front mark. I may well cut the frames again just behind the cylinder to make them removable, this may require a new front and back for them. Sorry about the second photo I was in a rush and only took one so it had to do.
I also checked where the brake
Time to start a new project. Sometime ago I bought an ACME Ivatt 2mt tank. It was sold having been started. The only thing done was some very poor riveting. I think most can be over come, a few small parts may need replacing but that is no hardship really. It is all etched in Nickel silver, so will stand a little more punishment putting the riveting to rights.
I have added the necessary bits to build the loco, and also a few bits to improve it. There are not the parts to build a push
I decided I would get the chassis back together so I can quickly finish this if and wen the transfers arrive. I thought for a change I would post videos as most of it is testing and running as various parts are added.
I have missed out the first operation of running after the coupling rods are connected. But start with after the connecting rods and crossheads are. I run one side before adding the second. I also at this time make sure the return crank lines up correctly.
I've just come back and gone through my whole blog.
You know I like the way it works. I have a feeling I may come back to it. I still like the forum side, and will keep it update. But, I feel that this was the best way to show loco builds etc. Much easier to follow.
So watch this space a T1 scratch build maybe starting here real soon.
